Shoppin' and strollin'

26.09.2007 Paris, France
Having spent the first few days covering the major sights, I feel like I can now take the time to relax: shop, wander around, sit outside cafés with a coffee or a glass of white wine. It might be the best way to experience Paris.

Kitty-chan at Place des Victoires. This girl is everywhere.

Token culture of the day

Opéra Garnier is amazing in its over-the-top baroqueness. Next time I should plan ahead and organise a ticket to a performance.



A beer bottle designed by Philippe Starck and an exhibition on Helvetica. Surely this makes my trip tax deductible!

And then, I was in Spain

27.09.2007 Sevilla, Spain
It was a shock to the system coming from cold, wet Paris into the searing heat of Seville. But the unseasonal dry heat was only a precursor to the big storms to come.

Catedral and La Giralda

Reputedly the largest in the world, the cathedral was built on the site of a 15th-century Moorish mosque, and Giralda tower dates back to the 12th century. It was interesting, and somewhat jarring, to see the Christian icons and artworks within this Islamic architectural framework.

Bullfights and flamenco

The bullfighting ring at Plaza de Toro. I'll return here on Saturday to watch the bullfight.


I know it was a performance aimed at tourists, but it was enjoyable all the same. The likelihood of coming across someone spontaneously breaking into flamenco dance during my one-week visit was very low.

Day trip to Córdoba

28.09.2007 Córdoba, Spain
About two hours from Seville by bus, Córdoba is a beautiful town with a pleasant atmosphere.





Originally an 8th-century mosque, the Mezquita was converted into a church and expanded over the centuries. Architectural styles vary from Moorish to European baroque.


Hidden in the narrow winding alleys of the old Jewish quarter, the tiny Sinagoga dates back to 1315.




The fountains and lush gardens of Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Fortress of the Christian Kings) provide a soothing oasis in this dusty town.

Sevilla at night

After midnight, I found tapas for dinner in a small bar in Triana, and a few colourful characters.

Morning in Triana

29.09.2007 Sevilla, Spain

Real Alcázar, de Sevilla

The royal palace is one of the best remaining examples of Mudéjar architecture, a style under Christian rule in Spain but showing Islamic architectural influences.

Barrio de Santa Cruz

Barrio de Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter with narrow winding alleyways.


Tapas lunch at Bodega. The beer is cheap and the food delicious. The barman keeps tab by chalking down numbers on the bar.

Casa de Pilatos

This small palace, built in the 15th-16th century, shows a mixture of Italian Renaissance and Spanish Mudéjar styles. During my visit, workmen were transforming it into an evening reception venue, layout out tables and linen in the courtyard.

The bloody sport of bullfighting

I thought it would last about an hour and they might kill a couple of bulls. But nine bulls ended up being sacrificed for our entertainment tonight (poor things, they didn't stand a chance). I felt neither elation nor revulsion. Only a faint nausea after three hours of bloodshed. Nice costumes though!

Roman ruins in Spain

30.09.2007 Mérida, Spain
Founded in 25 B.C., Mérida was a town of major importance in the Roman Empire. It boasts an impressive collection of Roman ruins: an amphitheatre, a chariot-racing ring, temples and mansions, a bridge and an aqueduct. Unfortunately the modern town that has sprung up around the ruins is rather ugly and drab. And there is graffiti everywhere.

Monday in Cáceres

01.10.2007 Cáceres, Spain
On Monday in Cáceres, everything is closed. So there was nothing to do except walk around the medieval old town (in the rain), which wasn't that bad at all as it is very picturesque. The churches, towers, palaces and plazas are amazingly well preserved.

Dawn breaks over Trujillo

02.10.2007 Trujillo, Spain
This is the view of Plaza Mayor and Iglesia de San Martin from my room at the NH Palacio de Santa Marta Hotel, which is an 18th-century palace.



In the 16th century, Francisco Pizarro and his brothers set off from Trujillo and conquered the Inca empire.


Breakfast of churros and coffee. The churros looked and tasted exactly the same as the Chinese fried dough that's eaten with congee.

Alcazaba

Alcazaba was the highlight of the day. The fortress ruins afforded superb views over the town and to the plains beyond.